PRINT: Rock Climb Quartzite Ridge North Side, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Quartzite Ridge North Side

4th PG13, Trad, 1000 ft (303 m),

Avg: 2.9 from 14 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Quartzite Crag

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

Although junky looking from afar, this pleasant and exposed scramble yields a surprising amount of fun and solid climbing on juggy quartzite. Make your way to the base of Quartzite Crag, and jump on the ridge. Continue up, staying near the ridge crest for the most solid rock and fun climbing. While the majority of this route is easy 5th to 3rd class, several short vertical to overhanging bulges and corners will keep you on your toes.

Location

Start at the base of Quartzite Crag, and climb until the rock runs out. Continue uphill until you hit the West Ridge trail and take it down.

Protection

Protection is possible, but all of the harder climbing is directly above large ledges so this most likely makes a better solo.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This is where I started scrambling. The traffic cone seemed like a great route start marker.

Pretty scramble.

Towards the end of the route, looking back at what's been climbed.

Quartzite Crag.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bat Masterson
Red Rock, AZ

mountainproject.com/route/1…

Already posted here. Aug 16, 2018

Eric Klammer
Eagle, CO

PG13

Different routes. :)

This is the ridge running up the N side of the canyon. Aug 16, 2018

Bat Masterson
Red Rock, AZ

This one is actually more fun than the ridge on the other side of the canyon. Route finding is key to keeping it 3rd Class. Aug 20, 2018

Kurt VonEhr
Oakland, CA

Very fun, many jugs, and optional 4/5th all the way up. If you get nervous, you can reroute to the climber's right and usually take an easier path. The creek was flowing too high to access West Ridge by hopping across, but I think you can start on the Eldorado Canyon Trailhead side and bushwhack East along the creek to access the crag base. I turned it into a longer hike and went up and over toward Rincon crag and then back down to the creek, bushwhacked an overgrown path until I hit the power lines, and the beginning of the climb becomes obvious. Climb up, and you'll naturally hit the West Ridge Trail. Jul 23, 2023