Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 1300 ft (394 m), 13 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||1,262 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||Mike Lewis on Apr 1, 2015|
|Admins:||Hank Caylor, MAKB, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham|
This is a traditional adventure route - a mix of rock climbing, alpine-like climbing, and jungle mountaineering - not for the faint of heart nor the lack of climbing ability.
At 5.8x, do not be mislead. This is a scary route with a ton of loose rock, lack of protection, a plethora of sharp rock, and unlimited amounts of cactus and other pokey things.
Careful - there are routes that folks climb on both sides of the ridge, though mostly on the MiniSuper Wall and TNT Wall. We were able to climb the ridge without knocking a single rock down, but I am surprised!
Route Info: I don't know who the first ascentionist of this ridge is, nor the name. I asked around and no one knew. Let me know if you know...
Pitch 2: Go straight up into a small left-facing corner with a crack. Go around the corner to the left and up. 5.8
Pitch 3-13 or whatever: Follow the ridge. Stop where you can find options for anchors, and at the base of the obvious steeper pitches.
Descent: At the top of the ridge, bushwack up and left toward the large cliffs at the top of Super Nova. Rappel Super Nova (single 60m rope works for the 8 rappels).
We used one set of bolted anchors at the top of Baad Monkey for the first pitch. We found one other set of bolted anchors about 1/2 way up the ridge - where someone bailed into Estrellas Canyon.
Other than that, its all removable protection baby! There are multiple short sections of steep rock (5.7-5.8). Sometimes these sections are protected at an R rating, and sometimes an X rating. Not only do these section include runout 5.8 climbing, but there are loose rock, dirty rock, sharp rock, and sharp, pokey plants to navigate.
Options for anchors were decent. We only body-belayed once on an easy section where we couldn't find any gear for an anchor.
We did 35m+ pitches for most of the pitches.