Lost in the Sespe
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 265 ft (80 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,067 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | Alex Bury on Mar 31, 2015 |
Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure
Details
Check Caltrans ( roads.dot.ca.gov/) for up-to-date closure information.
Description
Lost in the Sespe features over two hundred feet of continuous climbing up a wild part of Black Wall. A 70m rope is required to complete the very long first pitch.
Start by two pipes on the wall and head up towards a very small pine. Climb left up the scruffy ramp, then back right to gain the right facing ribs. Thin gear in a horizontal protects the moves to the leaning corner. Follow the corner to the huge ledge above, make your own belay.
A second pitch of easy terrain leads to the backside walk-off.
Start by two pipes on the wall and head up towards a very small pine. Climb left up the scruffy ramp, then back right to gain the right facing ribs. Thin gear in a horizontal protects the moves to the leaning corner. Follow the corner to the huge ledge above, make your own belay.
A second pitch of easy terrain leads to the backside walk-off.
- This climb will earn an additional star or two when it cleans up, it features quality rock like its neighbors down the wall. Until then expect some scruff.
- In the future, it may be possible to avoid the scruffy ramp by climbing directly, but this variation would require some cleaning. For now, take the ramp.
- Careful use of slings is required to avoid rope drag on the first pitch.
- Making this a safe lead requires the leader be solid at the grade and experienced at placing gear.
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