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South Face

5.11a/b, Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 0 from 0 votes
FA: James Garrett, Annette Keller
Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swel… > Turkey Tower


From Eric Bjornstad's 1997 Desert Rock:
[P0: Climb a 50' 5.6 pitch to gain access to the top of the pedestal.]
P1: Climb a splitter crack up the center of the south face.
P2: Continue up and left through a rotten chimney to better rock, with face climbing to the summit.

Location and Descent

The route is the obvious crack line with anchors splitting the south face.

Traverse to the higher north summit to find the rap anchors at the top of Swiss Gentleman. Do one 100' rap to the first set of anchors and a ledge. Rap 150' to the ground.


3 sets of friends #1-#3.5; Camalots #4 or #5 for pitch 2 and bottom of pitch 1.

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South Face of Turkey Tower
[Hide Photo] South Face of Turkey Tower