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Birdland

5.10, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: Bruce Burgess, Thomas Kelly
N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Rumbling Bald > Tail of the Cat Area

Description

Need to fulfill your novelty crack addiction? Then come up and find the Birdland boulder. It a massive boulder that sits in the drainage on your way to the "tail of the cat" and "solitude" areas.

We took the line up the big crack to the right of the large tree in front of the boulder. Lieback, Jamming, and some crimps holds on the side cracks let you fight through the overhanging section, all while the tree is up in your stuff.

After the overhang, then the short fun off-width begins, which feels like a rest. After that the slabby,slopping top out begins.

Navigate through the poison ivy vines, to the top. And perform the descent shenanigans, listed in the Rumbling Bald Guidebook.

We opt'd for some different shenanigans and down climbed/aided to the "V"in the tree and rappelled 15ft down from there, mainly because the poison ivy along the top was just starting to bud out.

Location

Approach to "Tail of the Cat Area" Large boulder that is sitting in the middle of the drainage.

Descent: Perform the counterweight and lower technique, if the ivy isn't bad at the top. Or weirdly down climb into the Tree V and rappel from the trunk.

CRUX: Be ready to think about how to get down.

Protection

single Rack, #4 is nice at the top of the wide part.
No Anchors, No walk-off.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Boulder crack
[Hide Photo] Boulder crack
Place some gear high and get those forearms ready. Layback hard (using the tree for me) until reaching a jug. I went up and left to the adjacent crack and placed a #1 and then traversed back to the wideness, firing in some desperate hands/fists and plugging in a #3 and #4. follow this fist crack till it ends next to tree with a cordelette around it. Lower from the cordalette/biner.
[Hide Photo] Place some gear high and get those forearms ready. Layback hard (using the tree for me) until reaching a jug. I went up and left to the adjacent crack and placed a #1 and then traversed back to the…
Birdland Boulder
[Hide Photo] Birdland Boulder