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Routes in Saddle Rocks - Skirt (West Face)

Cheap Way to Die T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Cole-Anderson S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dial 911 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Do Rein Me T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gaucho Marx T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hanna Montana TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harlequin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Harley Queen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
If You see Crow, Bark! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Kid Calingula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Posse, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
R&R Revamped T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Restoration & Repair (R&R) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right On T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Santa Cruz T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Silver Spur T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Six Shooter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Us and Them T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Walk on the Wild Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where Have all the Cowboys Gone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Write In TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Charles Cole, Gib Lewis, Herb Laeger, 1980
Page Views: 457 total · 11/month
Shared By: Joe Hunt on Mar 30, 2015 with updates from john durr
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

I did a search for this route on MP and could not find it, I did this route in 1992, so here goes.

The crux is right off the ground with two bolts (I only recall two down low, not like the new Miramontes book showing three) protecting 10d edging. After moving through the crux I went pretty much straight up to a little roof. The climbing past the crux and before the roof wasn't attention grabbing (maybe 5.9). What was attention grabbing in 92' was that all the bolts shown in the purple Vogel guide from 86' and the new Miramontes guide (both show four bolts after the low crux) were not there... just a couple of rusty 1/4" stems and a couple of holes. I got a wired nut over one stem and that was it until the roof. The roof protected with a #2 camalot in a gravel-y undercling. The roof turns on a 10.b sloper arch that resides just above the roof. You work your hands across it as you get your right foot up. There was a two 1/4" bolt anchor there just above the roof. The topo from the old purple Vogel guide shows the route more accurately, IMO, than the Miramontes bolt locations on the picture in that guide book. But, my memory of this is 23 years old. I did do it a few times, though.

The second pitch was old school bolted 10a face climbing to the crack/ramp that meets up with WOTWS. Falls on this climb for the leader, just about anywhere but the crux, would have resulted in badness when I did it. And, in the new Miramontes book it still shows an R rating even while showing all those supposedly Charles Cole original bolts back in place. Anyway, great first pitch (micro edging to mini roof) awesome location, and multipitch, make this one of my favorite Joshua Tree routes. Surprised not to see it here on Mountain Project.

Protection

Bolts, and some nuts and cams up to #2 camalot. Rap off or downclimb

  • All the bolts on this route are modern ASCA bolts in their original locations. Seven bolts on pitch 1 and five bolts on pitch 2.

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