Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: John Kear, Timy Fairfield, Brandi Proffitt
Page Views: 356 total · 8/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Mar 29, 2015
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

The direct start for Midget Proof offers thin crimping through several boulder problems until it joins Midget Proof at the sixth bolt. Climb easily past the first three bolts to a thin crimping warmup section to the 4th bolt. Grab one last good shake and launch into powerful thin section, clip the fixed fifth bolt, grab a quick shake and head into the crux, probably a V6 boulder problem. Afterwards obtain the choss huecos of Midget Proof, rummage through for the good solid holds and pull the final reachy moves out the roof.

An alternate 12b sequence exists if you head hard left at the 5th bolt to join Midget Proof earlier and skip the V6 crux.

Location

Starts 15' right of and joins Midget Proof at the 6th bolt. On the right side of the Bat Cave.

Protection

8 Bolts to Anchors, Need draws for the first 4 bolts.

Photos

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12d
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.12d
I had climbed this years ago ~2011, and had noted it as 5.12a. A few holds have broken since then leaving much harder climbing and a better route. Whats left seems quite solid. Mar 30, 2015
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12d
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.12d
After talking with some others who had gotten on this route, it might deserve an upgrade and the crux might be V7. Mar 1, 2016
Thomas Pham
Las Cruces, NM
 
Thomas Pham   Las Cruces, NM
 
Not sure if anymore holds popped off the wall, but my sequence on the lower half starts on small crimps between big jugs. I get a great gaston crimp with the right hand, after the last jug, then move left a small crimp. I make a big move to a great in-cut crimp at the fifth bolt. After that, it gets crazy. I exited left and got a redpoint on the 5.12b variation. Apr 13, 2018