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Routes in Diagonal

El Ovillo del osillo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Turn S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Un Pobre Infeliz S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 111 total, 3/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Mar 29, 2015
Admins: Jason Halladay

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4 Opinions

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Description

Wild features with great rock.

Fun moves up a steep wall. Some reachy-ness.

Break left just before the first big ledge, left of a bush which is left of the BIG bush. Bolt or two leads over to the anchor for an awkward finish.

Shame this route doesn't finish straight up as indicated in the 2008 Rockfax guidebook. Either the anchor is missing or the book just got it wrong.

Location

Just right of El olvillo del osillo.

Route to the left of the huge bush that's a distinctive feature of the Diagonal sector.

Protection

Bolted sport route.

Anchor is shared with the route to the left; El olvillo del osillo. Get an eyeball on this anchor prior to launch.

Photos

Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
I rated it PG13 as its reachy and has a bit of a sketchy traverse to reach the poorly positioned anchor. Comments here confirm some of that sentiment:

ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.ph…

Cheers. Apr 18, 2017
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.9
I'm not sure why this is given a PG13 rating. It is a perfectly safe sport route. Also, the guide book calls it 4+ (5.7 typically, 5.8 based on book's conversion chart). I feel that is a bit of a sandbag as it did not feel much easier than the 5.9 to the left. Apr 18, 2017