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Old Pirates

5.11a, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 149 votes
FA: Chuck Fitch and Adam Huxley, spring 2013
Colorado > Golden > Lookout Mtn Rd > Tiers of Zion > C. Lower Tier > C. Middle & W Walls

Description

Balancy moves into a tension-y stance lead to a hand jam and a strenuous pull over the lip (crux) and then a thin and interesting face above that stays challenging. This is good stuff.

Location

This is on the left side of the West Wall, where the overhang angles up and left. Locate the first bolt in the swirly-patterned rock below the overhang. The middle of the 3 bolted lines on the West Wall.

Protection

7 bolts + 2-bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Katie Kelble (age 10) pulls the lip.
[Hide Photo] Katie Kelble (age 10) pulls the lip.
Beautiful stone reminiscent of Van Gogh clouds. I believe this is created by Ptygmatic folding in migmatite.
[Hide Photo] Beautiful stone reminiscent of Van Gogh clouds. I believe this is created by Ptygmatic folding in migmatite.
West Wall topo photo.
[Hide Photo] West Wall topo photo.
Getting ready to pull the overhang.
[Hide Photo] Getting ready to pull the overhang.
Clipping the second bolt.
[Hide Photo] Clipping the second bolt.
Katie Kelble gets the beta from first ascentionist Chuch Fitch.
[Hide Photo] Katie Kelble gets the beta from first ascentionist Chuch Fitch.
Chuck, 7/13/2013.
[Hide Photo] Chuck, 7/13/2013.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] The crux is around the first bolt. It is not that hard to pull over the overhang. There is a big "jug" hold reachable above the overhang. May 13, 2015
[Hide Comment] Although not necessary, it might be nice to bring some small gear to plug in after the final bolt. Aug 20, 2015
Josh
Golden, CO
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Cory-- not the first time a bat has been startled in that hand jam slot. The good news is that biologists are eager for reports of sightings and roost spots from climbers right now, and you can help! Email the details of your encounter (date, location, which route, what feature) to climbersforbats@colostate.edu.

Climbers for Bat Conservation is a new program of the Colorado Natural Heritage Program (housed at CSU). Visit for climbersforbats.colostate.edu for more info on their project, but the basic gist is that not very much is known about where the majority of bat species spend their daytime, and climbers are uniquely suited to help provide reports of small roost sites in crevices and behind rock features. The species that have big colonies in caves or mines have been studied a lot, but our most common bat species generally don't form big colonies; instead, they hang out in small groups or single families in smaller cracks or trees or, well, no one really knows where. That's why bat sighting reports from us climbers are so useful. Climbers for Bat Conservation has been doing a study this summer specifically at the Tiers of Zion, and this exact hand slot has been reported before, but it's useful for the researchers to know it is still being used, even after regular disturbance by climbers all summer. Aug 19, 2019
Matt S
Colorado Springs
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Super fun route. More techie than anything, but it has some solid rests. The top eases up a bit, but some small gear may be nice for some folks. The runout adds to the fun! May 24, 2020
Cole Pazar
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I may be the first person to have aid climbed the entire route. :D Jul 31, 2020
joshua larkin
Boulder
 
[Hide Comment] If you go straight up from the second bolt (under the lip) to the third bolt, it's a long reach from a left hand, rounded hold just over the lip to right hand crack for fingers. I found this beta to be super reachy and felt pretty hard for 11a. After trying a few times, I found some huge jugs just right of the bolt line (easier than 11a). Is going right at the lip the actual line to keep it from getting a harder grade or am I (5'9") just too short to reach that top right hold? May 27, 2022
Lang Daly
Golden, CO
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Felt the same as Joshua. Would be great to know if the route was meant to be climbed with the big jug or not. Still fun either way. Oct 6, 2022
Josh
Golden, CO
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Lang and Joshua, when I climbed this route with the FA party some weeks after it went up, the beta they called up was to go slightly right to those jugs before turning the lip. Depends on how far right you mean, though-- you could end up on the bigger lefthand holds on the Three Little Birds line. That seems too far. Oct 10, 2022
Jan Bakaj
Denver, CO
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Finding the right line on this one is not obvious. If you go straight up above the bolt, it feels closer to 11d/12a, but if you go out right to the jugs, it feels 10c or 10d at worst. Either the bolting on this line is unintuitive or it's sandbagged to hell. Aug 27, 2024
Jake Marks
Golden CO
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] I found the crux to be the sidepull and techy footwork to get to the second bolt to be the crux. Getting over the roof felt a lot easier than this. Mar 3, 2025