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Routes in Chalten Massif

East Face Glacier - Cerro Eléctrico T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Afannassief T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Austríaca T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brenner-Moschioni to Comesana-Fonrouge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cara Este - Mojón Rojo T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Chiaro di Luna (Claro de Luna) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Comesaña-Fonrouge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Frader Pisafe, aka Salvaterra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
La Luna de Miel - The Honeymoon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Last Gringos Standing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Supercanaleta T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI4 M5-6 PG13
Voie Des Benitiers T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C1
Whillans-Cochrane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI3 M4
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1200 ft, 12 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Daniel Anker-Michel Piola
Page Views: 790 total, 24/month
Shared By: Matt Peres on Mar 27, 2015
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

Great Route! Perfect granite.

Pitch 1-2: The direct original start has somewhat broken rock on these pitches. We decided to enter from the right climbing 5.5-5.6 for 2 pitches or so to gain the start of the 3rd pitch.

Pitch 3: Amazing flake systems begin your ascent of the face at 6b.

Pitch 4-5: Continue up flakes, cracks to a ledge. 6a

Pitch 6: Beautiful right facing dihedral with a perfect hand crack in the back of it. Move up this to the top of the block at 6b.

Pitch 7: Crux Pitch. A beautiful flake splits the face tending left. Climb to the top of the flake 6c and make a 7b+ move left at the piton in the left crack or tension and C1 tension traverse over to it. Continue climbing beautiful flake/crack 6c to its top at a ledge.

Pitch 8: Left facing corner 6a.

Pitch 9: Gaining the ridge line head right and across the ridge to a platform. 4th class.

Pitch 10-11: Follow cracks/corner to the summit. 6a

Location

8 mile hike from Chalten. Hiking into the Torre Valley, cross the river via Tyrolean, moving across the ridge line and into the trees. Gain elevation and follow trail into the valley. Traverse the hillside until breaking out of the tree and find the rope handline leading down the drainage towards the glacier. Follow the left hand side of the glacier on trail until reaching the area of the glacier that is dry with no crevasses. Head right and up across the glacier heading towards El Mochito.

From Niponino campground follow the ridge line towards El Mochito. Passing El Mochito on the right hand side of the wall start to angle up and left into a drainage that moves steeply up broken terrain to meet slabs. Move left across the slabs towards the start of the route. Follow fixed hand lines across the slabs.

Buy Rolando Garibotti's book. It's a work of art.

Protection

Standard Rack; doubles to #2

Photos

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