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Viola Ravine

WI3-4, Ice, 6 pitches,  Avg: 2.9 from 18 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Catskills (Ice) > Kaaterskill Clove > Ravines

Description

Viola is likely the least-traveled of the ravines, so it's a good place to escape the crowds on a busy weekend. If you take the least difficult line on each pitch it may also be the easiest ravine. But that's not to say that there's not some challenging climbing in there - leaving the streambed at the 3rd pitch puts you on a stout 2-pitch grade 4 option. To the right of the top pitch are another couple alternatives, one of which is a long easy smear culminating in a vertical, often narrow pillar. So look around as you climb; there's probably more ice up there than you can do in a single visit.

There is also an abundance of mostly untapped potential in there for mixed climbing. As of March 2015, there's a short M7 left of P1 ("Pneumococcus") and an M6 right of P4 ("Ride the Pony").

If it's more ice you're after, contour 200 yd right of P3 and you'll come to the Landslide Wall, a broad wall of WI3 ice offering at least 8 different lines. One can descend from this area back to the base without rappeling. UPDATE - sometime in late 2021, the landslide wall lived up to its name, releasing a massive slough of rock. Climbing (and hiking down) in that area could be dicey for a while; you've been warned.

Location

Follow Hillyer tote road until a cairn and fallen tree on the right signal the turn-off. Descend slightly as you head right toward (and then across) Hillyer creek. Contour across the slope to hit the first pitch.

Protection

Typical ravine climbing: shortish pitches, easy to see what you're biting off. Rap anchors should be there where you need them (massive fallen trees atop P1 and P2 can be used as well.)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Eric in the Blue Room.
[Hide Photo] Eric in the Blue Room.
3rd or 4th pitch, cool feature. Quite melted out but still goes, march 17th 2021
[Hide Photo] 3rd or 4th pitch, cool feature. Quite melted out but still goes, march 17th 2021
Pitch 3, right option
[Hide Photo] Pitch 3, right option
Danny Neri peering through the frosted window of Viola Ravine P4 (1/31/26)
[Hide Photo] Danny Neri peering through the frosted window of Viola Ravine P4 (1/31/26)
Jason Shao in the Blue Room behind P2.
[Hide Photo] Jason Shao in the Blue Room behind P2.
Second pitch in early season.  Eventually the area to the right will be covered by a thick wall of ice (with a very cool "Blue Room" behind it).
[Hide Photo] Second pitch in early season. Eventually the area to the right will be covered by a thick wall of ice (with a very cool "Blue Room" behind it).
Easy "Mixed" Section, 5th or 6th pitch - the whole upper flow not visible- topout was a little weird and dry but nothing crazy.
[Hide Photo] Easy "Mixed" Section, 5th or 6th pitch - the whole upper flow not visible- topout was a little weird and dry but nothing crazy.
Pitch Five (Right)  of Viola February 1st 2020
[Hide Photo] Pitch Five (Right) of Viola February 1st 2020
Pitch Four (right)  of Viola February 1st 2020, picture doesn't tell the tale of just how wet this basterd was!
[Hide Photo] Pitch Four (right) of Viola February 1st 2020, picture doesn't tell the tale of just how wet this basterd was!
Pitch Three of Viola February 1st 2020
[Hide Photo] Pitch Three of Viola February 1st 2020
Ride the Pony, M6
[Hide Photo] Ride the Pony, M6
Pneumococcus, M7
[Hide Photo] Pneumococcus, M7

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joe B
nyc
 
[Hide Comment] Many pitches were not in. Lots of running water and bushwhacking Feb 14, 2022