Type: Sport, 60 ft Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: FTR: Aaron Formella, Eric Henderson, & Aaron Stireman on January 18th, 2015, FA: Aaron Formella, Jared Malapit on March 21st, 2015
Page Views: 599 total · 11/month
Shared By: Aaron Formella on Mar 26, 2015
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Onomatology

28 One of the teachers of the law came and heard them (Jesus & the Sadducees) debating. Noticing that Jesus had given them a good answer, he asked him, “Of all the commandments, which is the most important?”

29 “The most important one,” answered Jesus, “is this: ‘Hear, O Israel: The Lord our God, the Lord is one. 30 Love the Lord your God with all your heart and with all your soul and with all your mind and with all your strength.’ 31 The second is this: ‘Love your neighbor as yourself.’ There is no commandment greater than these.”

32 “Well said, teacher,” the man replied. “You are right in saying that God is one and there is no other but him. 33 To love him with all your heart, with all your understanding and with all your strength, and to love your neighbor as yourself is more important than all burnt offerings and sacrifices.”

34 When Jesus saw that he had answered wisely, he said to him, “You are not far from the kingdom of God.”

Tobin Sorenson was arguably one of the most talented and bold climber's of his generation, and was also a bold Christian. He made the first ascent of the route to climber's right, "Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Hand Jam," via a bold free solo. I thought it would be fitting for this route to be a memorial to Tobin's life and in its title, attempt to capture a part of what I believe motivated him; love for the Lord. The Greatest Commandment, Mark 12:30

Description

This route may feel like a 5.12 if trying to onsight it. It is the bolted line to climber's left of, "Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Hand Jam," and starts from the ground behind a large block in front of bolt 1. Move up via a fun, mildy overhanging compression boulder problem past two bolts, then figure out how to get on top of the bulge. Here you will find a good rest. Don't forget to take a look down and enjoy the perspective from this unique perch. When ready, clip bolt 3 and enjoy some balancy and technical face moves up to bolt 4 then smear and crank your way up the final slab onto easy ground to gain the anchor.

It is possible to set up a top-rope on this route if you lead one of the routes to the right or left. Left is, "Private Pepper," 5.7, and right is, "Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Hand Jam," 5.10b. When top-roping, the bulge tends to work the rope pretty hard so I recommend using a static rope or a rope of which you don't mind wearing the sheath. About 35 meters of rope should work fine.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with rings. I recommend using a single carabiner to clip bolt one; this gains a few more inches from the ground if clipping bolt 2 goes awry. There is a large space between bolts 2 and 3 and an option for pro (0.5" - 0.75"), but it is likely unnecessary since you can clip high from a stance on a ledge and a jug. There is an option to place a shallow, medium nut for additional pro just past the last bolt.

If Tobin put this route up, there would probably be less bolts.

Photos