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Routes in Right-Side

Cream of Wheat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lucky Charms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twinkie Defense T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Fred Feldman and Errett Allen
Page Views: 162 total · 5/month
Shared By: old5ten on Mar 26, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb the OW (5.7) to easier ground, then continue up the prominent crack (5.7) located slightly up and to the right.(alternately it is possible to diagonal up and left on easier, but less aesthetic ground). At the top of the crack go slightly down the ramp to the P1 anchor. This pitch is definitely not 4 stars.

From the P1 anchor follow the amazing dike up and over a bulge to a gear anchor on top (or head to the bolted anchor just 10' to the left). The dike is one of the best pitches at Benton Crags - it's mostly low key climbing, BUT it is R rated - if you don't feel comfortable climbing 20'+ above your last little cam you should not be on this route. The last real pro before the top is underneath the lip of the bulge (the 5.8 crux). This pitch is stellar!

Location

Cream of Wheat is located on the right side of Junk Food Rock. Look for the tower that divides the right side of Junk Food Rock and the prominent dike above. On the left hand edge where JFR meets the right side of the tower one can see two cracks - the left is OW, the right is a squeeze chimney (poor pro). We climbed the OW on the left.

Alternately, it is possible to move up into the 3rd class chimney between the tower and JFR, then take another chimney (just below the dike on p2 of Cream of Wheat, not visible) to the p1 anchor.

Protection

Pro to 4" - small cams recommended
There is a bolted anchor at P1 and another bolted anchor about 10' left of where the route ends on p2. Both anchors are not very good (as of 3/26/15). We did two raps with one single 70m rope. I don't think a single 60m rope will make it from the top of p2 to the top of p1. The book's assertion of a 3rd class walk off to the left is a fallacy, if you fall on the traverse without a belay you will probably die...

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