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Mexican Americans
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Sport, 370 ft (112 m), 6 pitches |
FA: | Dan Head |
Page Views: | 770 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Cameron Fraser on Mar 25, 2015 |
Admins: | Cameron Fraser |
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Description
One of the longer sport routes at Kawakawa Bay. This describes the alternative start up sunset arete (for 6 pitches in total). Strictly speaking the climb starts up the eponomous "Mexican Americans" (20) to the left.
Aside from a short section of grade 23/24 most of this route is grade 18ish. If you cant quite onsite 23/24 but still want to experience this awesome climb, you can always pull on a draw...
Pitch 1 - 18
Begin up the arete (first pitch of after the sunset). Can do the trad line to the left instead as they finish at the same anchors.
Pitch 2 -16
Continue up the second pitch of after the sunset.
From the bolted anchors at the top of this pitch head left into the bushes to a fixed line. Follow the fixed line to the start of pitch 3 (Alternatively you can scramble up an overgrown gully)
Pitch 3 - 18ish
From the starting anchors of this pitch climb up, then traverse right and upwards following the bolts. Don't stop at the random anchors in the cave. Finish on a long ledge.
Pitch 4 - 18+
A shortish pitch up the face. Can be linked with pitch 3 if you have 17 draws and don't mind a bit of rope drag.
Pitch 5 - 23/24
The crux pitch with wicked exposure. Pull through a small roof on marginal holds then keep cranking for another couple of bolts. Things start to ease up after this with the remainder of the pitch grade 18ish.
Pitch 6 - 14
A short pitch to get to the top of the cliff
Walk off via marked trail that leads you to the upper bluffs.
Aside from a short section of grade 23/24 most of this route is grade 18ish. If you cant quite onsite 23/24 but still want to experience this awesome climb, you can always pull on a draw...
Pitch 1 - 18
Begin up the arete (first pitch of after the sunset). Can do the trad line to the left instead as they finish at the same anchors.
Pitch 2 -16
Continue up the second pitch of after the sunset.
From the bolted anchors at the top of this pitch head left into the bushes to a fixed line. Follow the fixed line to the start of pitch 3 (Alternatively you can scramble up an overgrown gully)
Pitch 3 - 18ish
From the starting anchors of this pitch climb up, then traverse right and upwards following the bolts. Don't stop at the random anchors in the cave. Finish on a long ledge.
Pitch 4 - 18+
A shortish pitch up the face. Can be linked with pitch 3 if you have 17 draws and don't mind a bit of rope drag.
Pitch 5 - 23/24
The crux pitch with wicked exposure. Pull through a small roof on marginal holds then keep cranking for another couple of bolts. Things start to ease up after this with the remainder of the pitch grade 18ish.
Pitch 6 - 14
A short pitch to get to the top of the cliff
Walk off via marked trail that leads you to the upper bluffs.
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