Type: Sport, 370 ft (112 m), 6 pitches
FA: Dan Head
Page Views: 770 total · 7/month
Shared By: Cameron Fraser on Mar 25, 2015
Admins: Cameron Fraser

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Description Suggest change

One of the longer sport routes at Kawakawa Bay. This describes the alternative start up sunset arete (for 6 pitches in total). Strictly speaking the climb starts up the eponomous "Mexican Americans" (20) to the left.

Aside from a short section of grade 23/24 most of this route is grade 18ish. If you cant quite onsite 23/24 but still want to experience this awesome climb, you can always pull on a draw...

Pitch 1 - 18
Begin up the arete (first pitch of after the sunset). Can do the trad line to the left instead as they finish at the same anchors.

Pitch 2 -16
Continue up the second pitch of after the sunset.

From the bolted anchors at the top of this pitch head left into the bushes to a fixed line. Follow the fixed line to the start of pitch 3 (Alternatively you can scramble up an overgrown gully)

Pitch 3 - 18ish
From the starting anchors of this pitch climb up, then traverse right and upwards following the bolts. Don't stop at the random anchors in the cave. Finish on a long ledge.

Pitch 4 - 18+
A shortish pitch up the face. Can be linked with pitch 3 if you have 17 draws and don't mind a bit of rope drag.

Pitch 5 - 23/24
The crux pitch with wicked exposure. Pull through a small roof on marginal holds then keep cranking for another couple of bolts. Things start to ease up after this with the remainder of the pitch grade 18ish.

Pitch 6 - 14
A short pitch to get to the top of the cliff

Walk off via marked trail that leads you to the upper bluffs.

Location Suggest change

End of the point. Start up either sunset ledge/ after the sunset (between hecklers and boat ramp crack).

Protection Suggest change

Fully bolted

Photos

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