PRINT: Rock Climb Caught at the Lip, Yosemite National Park

Caught at the Lip

5.11-, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 2 from 3 votes
FA: unknown
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley N Side > C. El Cap Picni… > 1. Schultz's Ridge

Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. Details

Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.

Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.

Description

Climb up along the roof in the dark rock alcove to the left of Gidget Goes to Yosemite and continue up the thin face above.

Protection

Bolts with optional gear

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rough sketch of the route. Route gets a really tough after the first roof pull

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

thesaltydalty Charest

Pretty horrifying and thing 5.11 slab up top after you pull the first roof. Continue past the slab to a second roof upon reaching a ledge that you mantle on. Last bolt should be rriiiiiggght over that big fat lip, so don't be afraid if you can't find once being high above of your last bolt and you don't see anything (freaked me out at first but I also thought I was climbing Gidget to the right up until the slab gave me a rude awakening.) Pull the big overhung roof move with holds that you feel as if you're taking a hot shower down at the lodge and about to put your feet up over a glass of champagne and shrimp cocktail. Climbing this lurid sport route in the shadow of El Cap gives you the opportunity to finally say you've climbed 5.11 in Yosemite without ever having to place a piece. What could be better?!

FYI enjoy the epic rock scramble up the gully to the base of the climb. Brings you just above the tree line or a pretty peaceful, epic, and uninterrupted view of the valley. Jul 28, 2017