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Routes in Omega Buttress

Annals of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Canada Regional Air T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI5- M4- Easy Snow
Cardiac ArĂȘtes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dihedral of Horrors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edge of Horror, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Guardian of Death T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V10 7C+ C0-1
Manufactured Crisis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Omega Crack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Omega Triangle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, Aid, Boulder, Alpine, 325 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Greg Collins, Nate Opp
Page Views: 582 total · 13/month
Shared By: Gee Dubble on Mar 24, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Description

4 pitch mini-wall, with huge roof, boulder problem, project.
P1: start just right of Manufactured Crisis, right diagonal crack with small overhang, slab, 5.7 to ledge, 1bolt.
P2: Step left onto arete, 5.9, up and left, 5.9, to 2 bolt anchor. Heady.
P3: hand crack and slab, belay under roof, 5.10
P4: huge roof with fixed gear, A1 (or free: 45 cm of hand movements remain unsent)
P5: East face right of arete' 5.5

Location

Big roof, guarding the mouth of Death Canyon. SE facing on North side. Right of Manufactured Crissis. 80m right of OMega Crack and 100m left of Dihedral of Horrors.

Approach as for Dihedral of Horrors, then left on ledges.

Protection

1 set, qd's, aiders...

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