Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 242 total · 5/month
Shared By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones on Mar 23, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Full value offwidth that starts as hands and quickly steepens up and moves to fists. A small horizontal provides some relief as the climb progresses over a roof and rock-solid handstacks. The flare provides a nice stance for the right leg. A glory ledge/jug ends the crux moves. The finish up to the anchors remains off-fists but the angle is much friendlier.

The route can be a little sandy in spots and has some flaky rock at the top. A helmet for the belayer is a good idea.

Location

Just 10 feet right of Rowdy. The two routes share anchors. The rock quality is sandier at the top, watch for loose bits near the anchors.

Protection

#2-#5 Camalots. Certainly a couple fours for the crux section. A #4 or #5 would protect the upper section well but could be left behind if you felt comfortable running it out on the easier terrain above. One bolt with chain and one with tat/biner.

Photos

Anus Herder
Colona, CO
  5.11
Anus Herder   Colona, CO
  5.11
The plaque at the base has this route as "Jesus Gave me Beta" id say its spot on this thing is pain Nov 22, 2017