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Flicking the Bean

5.11a/b, Trad, 105 ft (32 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 19 votes
FA: Mary Harlan, Jason Nelson
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Gash
Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

About 200 yds left of Bud's, start up some large blocks, angle right. You will be below a dihedral & a crack. Take the overlapping crack on the face, not the choss-filled dihedral. About 50 feet up it is possible to step left if you are tall, into a #4 crack, choose your own adventure, or stay right for a slightly more sustained outing. The 2 cracks converge a bit higher & traverse left on a hand traverse reminiscent of Way Rambo. Continue up the arcing crack to the anchors. 35m

Location

Walk 200 yds left of Bud's route, passing a large dihedral with The Big Cooter in it. Flicking the Bean is on the face left of the dihedral

Protection

1 #4 cam, 1 #3 cam, 4 #2 cams, 2 #1 cams, 2 #.75 cams, 2 #.5 cams, for the right hand crack. More #4 & #3 cams for the left crack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Photo of Annie Weinmann by Adam McClatchie
[Hide Photo] Photo of Annie Weinmann by Adam McClatchie
Plaque at head-height on top of starting block
[Hide Photo] Plaque at head-height on top of starting block
It's the crack on the right
[Hide Photo] It's the crack on the right

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Noah Grage
Colorado Springs. Co
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] 4 stars for sure. Really awesome route on a quiet/sunny cliff. Maybe bring a few slings for cams before the traverse Oct 16, 2022
Cory N
Monticello, UT
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Fun route!

Removed the tat and added some links. The right side could use two more links or chain to bring it inline with the left. For now it’s set up “euro style” offset and works great. Keep this thing tat free. It bakes in the sun Oct 29, 2022