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Pacifists of the Terrible

V5-6, Boulder,  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
Colorado > Grand Junction… > Holy Cross Boul… > El Chupacabra Area > FPC Block

Description

This is an instant classic in my opinion!

Start on the obvious jug on the right/center rail of the face. From there, move up using a TERRIBLE left hand gaston. Once solid, you'll need to find a 1/2 pad, one finger crimp to pull to the lip. The topout is kind of slopey but not too bad. The feet are good on the problem or this would be a much higher grade (and I would not be the one posting it).

Location

The downclimb is on the the back side of the block. Again, because this boulder is right on the trail, it will be important to look out for hikers and bikers as they should have the right away. When we were there, only one person walked by, so it shouldn't happen too often if I were to guess.

Protection

Pads and spotter. That being said, it's right on the trail, so be aware.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Terrible photo and for that I apologize, but hopefully it'll help with beta.
[Hide Photo] Terrible photo and for that I apologize, but hopefully it'll help with beta.
Sean with the left hand gaston and right hand mono crimp. Crux move....
[Hide Photo] Sean with the left hand gaston and right hand mono crimp. Crux move....
Sean on the mono crimp.
[Hide Photo] Sean on the mono crimp.
Sean nearing the top.
[Hide Photo] Sean nearing the top.
Sean before the topout.
[Hide Photo] Sean before the topout.
Sean on the top out. Love this picture!
[Hide Photo] Sean on the top out. Love this picture!