Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Uptown Rock - Upper Tier

"Alan Bartlett Wasn't Here" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Collar S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Downtown Man T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Funk You Up T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Funkytown S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sinners and Saints T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solemates T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uptown Funk S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uptown Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Tony Lewis, Eric Wolfe, Colleen McEvoy OS/GU
Page Views: 1,068 total · 30/month
Shared By: Tony Lewis on Mar 22, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route was done ground up, onsite and hand drilled from stances. No falls, no hangs. The crux is at the second bolt. Mostly face climbing. The line was originally climbed using the obvious vertical crack for the first pitch belay but getting there requires some 5th class to get to so an anchor was placed before this to tone it down a bit and to facilitate rapping.

Location

The route is on the "middle tier". Start on the 3rd class slab on the left hand side of the gully to the left of "Blue Collar" and climb for about 80' to first anchor. You can also walk up the gully between the middle tier and the upper tier to a bulge where you'll have to 3rd class to the west on the slab. The Beta Photo has a topo on it.

Protection

Pro: Cams to 2" and five 1/4" bolts (the bolts will be replaced but are fine for now). 2- 3/8" ss bolted rap rings at both anchors for rappel. Two sixty's get to to first anchor and then two sixty's to ground. You can also walk off to the East as per Uptown Rock overview photo.

Photos

Nice work Tony.

My wife and I were there the first day Tony was there. We also pulled off a rock on blue collar where there is the small jagged corner.

I thought all the routes here were good, even sinner and saints which I toproped and it climbed cleaner and easier than it looks from the ground.

Thanks to everybody establishing and equipping routes out there. Being way up canyon is very scenic. Apr 16, 2015
And indeed you have put up routes that are enjoyable. My partner and I had a great time there and the routes were our intro to Pine Creek. Another couple came over and also had a great time. Thank you for your hard work.......

Tony Mar 25, 2015
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
if you cleaned the large flake and all the crud around it, then there shouldn't be a problem with rockfall from that section - which was my original concern when i checked out that area and decided against cleaning it and putting up a couple of routes there (by hand or otherwise).

i have no problem with your style and never said so. ground up has it's place, as does rap bolting or a combination thereof. to me it's all good, but my motivation has always been to put up quality routes that others can enjoy.

blue collar and funk you up only have one pitch. it almost sounds like you traversed higher than what i did/intended.

there is no large pyramid flake to the left of the anchor, it is to the right. i did point out that i have no idea what's holding up that flake, but it does look much more solid viewed from the right (uptown funk) and i've climbed over it without a problem. Mar 25, 2015
Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.
Austin Archer   Bishop, Ca.
Looks like a nice line Tony. Looking forward to checking it out, as well as the other routes up there... Mar 24, 2015
Dear old5ten......Thank you for your continued concern. I know the exact flake you are talking about and the area. I took care of that flake and other loose rock by hand. It happened to be directly above the present first anchor which you may or may not have seen yet. I am aware of the extent of cleaning on routes in Pine Creek and have cleaned as much as I feel is necessary. I try not to change much of what is there naturally that can't be done by hand. And, as you note, the actual rock on the route is quite sound and does not come close to the area I cleaned. So any rock falling from the area of your concern would be from natural occurrences, much like any loose rock above any of the routes on the tiers could fall at any time. True, there will be some loose rock and I would hope that folks climb carefully as you suggest. I was taught to check for suspect rock while I climb as most areas I climb in have a tradition of ground up, onsite climbing.

And I'm pretty sure of what I pulled off on Blue Collar even if you aren't. I pulled off a loose, slightly larger then a softball sized rock along the edge of Blue Collar just before you climb across the slab to anchors. My girlfriend below was a bit concerned but I carefully threw it into the gully area to the west. I also noted that the large, pyramid flake to the left of the anchors for the first pitch of Blue Collar and Funk you Up is not attached by much and appears to have a block cleaned off below it. But I think that this is part of climbing and to be aware of such things on a traditional climb is part and parcel. My 'ethic' if you will (especially in this day and age when the common ethic seems to be "anything goes") is that I will not mess with your art if you won't mess with mine. I really try not to judge which is extremely hard for me to do at this age. But I try. I sincerely appreciate your concern and I think I understand that I may be on a different tack then most as to what "style" I'm climbing in and it may be out of fashion but that's my choice.. That style being ground up, onsite, while trying to be as minimally intrusive to the environment as possible. Consequently, I did not remove large bushes which may interfere with the rap route. If I thought that the route was contrived and unsound, I would not have done it but it seems obvious to me and it worked. Eric and I were able to pull ropes and thought carefully about how to place the anchors so that they would clear, as well as possible, those bushes. To reiterate, I cleaned what I could by hand and we were well aware of where the loose rock was and how it related to climbs and climbers.

Having said all this, I would be happy to meet with you if you come to the area and address any areas of concern you have. But I hope there are climbers out there who value this type of climbing and will try it and judge for themselves. That is why there are no stars yet and the rating tentative. I will let others judge.

Best, Tony
Mar 23, 2015
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
i'm actually referring to the stuff seen behind eric in your pic. if i remember correctly there was a large, thin, upright flake (3-4') just to climber's right in the vicinity of the p1 belay/crux, with a bunch of other smaller stuff around it. the danger i perceived was not necessarily to climbers on route, but to potential climbers in the alcove below (lower tier/shorty cliff).

blue collar is pretty solid, not sure what you could have pulled off on that... Mar 23, 2015
Thanks for the info....I rapped and knocked off the most dangerous stuff above the anchors after doing the route. This line follows the arete well to the left and not the face loose crack/flake you mention. Safer for sure now. This is more about the adventure akin to climbing with loose rock nearby as in the Valley or in Tuolumne and like most of Pine Creek as far as I can tell (look at all the loose rock above uptown rock in topo photo). Most climbs here seem to have loose rock above no matter the formation. I only removed what I was able to by hand. No tools used other then hammer and hand drill to place bolts. The climb has good rock and only occasional hand cleaning was necessary. Hope you try it and enjoy. Not a sport route. I pulled a couple of larger holds off Blue Collar when I soloed it so climbs become cleaner with use but I try to use caution everywhere when climbing.

Edit: Also, Thank you for your hard work on putting up the other routes. They're very nice and a great place to climb for the day. Mar 22, 2015
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
just a quick note: when i put up the routes on the upper tier i checked out the middle tier and decided against doing the two obvious lines (face and flake to the left) on that formation because of the large quantity of loose rock to the climber's right. it is quite easy to climb around it and the climbing on that face is pretty good, but the potential for knocking stuff off is very real. the rock funnels and ricochets down to the base of the lower tier and over the shorty cliff, both of which have existing routes on them. so, caution and safe climbing!!! Mar 22, 2015

More About "Alan Bartlett Wasn't Here"

Printer-Friendly Guide