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Routes in Mt. Hedgehog - East Ledges

"Out of the Wilderness" (on Bottom Slab) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
"The White Face" (on Bottom Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
18 Holes T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
A.M.C. Route (on bottom cliff) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Catch 22 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Dag-Nabit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
PB&J T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Ringwraith T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Rich Couchon, Todd Swain, Ned Getchell Sept. 3, 1977
Page Views: 41 total, 1/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Mar 22, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Located on the upper wall, above the Half-Way Tree Ledge, the main features of this climb are about 25-35 ft climber's right of the double bolt anchor on the Half-Way Ledge.

ACCESS: Earlier guidebooks describe this climb as starting from the double bolt anchor and moving right 25 +/- feet; however, since the 1977 FA some gnarly pine trees have grown up here so the recommended access is to rap down with 2 ropes from the 1/4" bolt (backed up, of course !!!) located 40-50 ft to climber's right (viewer's left looking out). Once near the ledge (which is more narrow here than by the bolts) look for a 2-3 ft wide "dike/shallow chimney" of quartz rock.

P1 - Climb up the obvious dike with its quartz holds, (not really as rotten as described in the Handran guide) move slightly left and gain a clean crack / shallow inside corner to the top. 130 ft 5.5 - 5.6

Location

About 30-35 ft climber's right of "Ringwraith's" double bolt anchor on the mid-height tree ledge.

Protection

Usual rack

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