Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Rich Couchon, Todd Swain, Ned Getchell Sept. 3, 1977
Page Views: 339 total · 7/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Mar 22, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

This climb is on the upper half of the cliff, starting from the Half-Way Tree Ledge.

ACCESS: Rap to the double bolt anchor on the mid-cliff tree ledge (see "Location"). The Ringwraith crack starts about 15-20 ft above, and 8-10 ft right of the double bolt anchor.

Per the FA party - move right about 8 ft and climb the dark, dike-like rock (crux) to a "hole" hand-hold (takes #2 Camalot) and on to the crack. Continue to the top.

Alternately, (and both easier and better protected) climb the white rock, just a couple of feet right of the double bolt anchor, past two rounded flakes (small TCU in 2nd flake) and step right to the "hole" hand-hold (take #2 Camalot) and up to the crack.
130 +/- ft, 5.4 - 5.5 PG-13 / R-ish (but, see "NOTE")

Location

Find the top of the Ringwraith cracks (see photo) and the new-ish 3/8" S.S. bolt near the right hand (looking OUT) end of the cliff.
Rap about 140 ft (2 ropes) to the mid-cliff tree ledge. Here you'll find the 2-bolt chained anchor.

Protection

0.5 (purple) to 2 (gold) "Camalots", or equivalent sized nuts.

NOTE: While a pure ground-up ascent is PG-13 and even a bit "R-ish" (Due to fall potential to a mid-cliff-ledge in the backcountry.) the crux can easily be protected. During the rappel, pre-place a Cam in the "hole" and add a long enough sling (4-5 ft long, or 2 "alpine draws") to reach the crux face moves. Clip the biner(s) on the lead up.
OK, so it isn't "ground-up style", but it's perfectly ethical (i.e. it doesn't change the rock).

Photos

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