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Routes in Saguaro Lake

Footloose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pleasuredome, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pugilism T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Release T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sharkfin, The T,TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Matt Johnson / Troy Dixon
Page Views: 367 total · 11/month
Shared By: Matthew.Johnson91 on Mar 19, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This route is a great all around adventure! It involves a 30 minute paddle, 30 minute approach hike (bushwhack), a couple of pitches of enjoyable climbing and a fun dramatic rappel for the descent.

Pitch 1: Climb up a fun but occasionally loose face for about 35 feet (5.6) to a crack system which leads to a large double-ledge belay. Awkward pro at belay ledge. Two possibilities exist for the 2nd pitch, both depositing you on the summit block.

Pitch 2A: Continue up crack system to a dramatic saddle, then traverse out onto the face to the right under the summit block to a palo verde tree at the top of the crack described in Pitch 2B. From there, scramble up the summit block to the top (5.3)

PITCH 2B: Move out and right toward the classic lightning-shaped crack just below the palo verde tree visible at the top. Huge exposure, classic moves and plenty of opportunities for protection. This pitch is the main event.(5.6) Scramble up summit block to top out.

Descent: one double-rope rappel from the palo verde tree at the top of pitch 2B.

Location

Protection

All trad at the moment but planning to add a bolt at the beginning of pitch one and a couple at the first belay ledge. Standard rack of stoppers and cams, also bring a long sling of about 12 feet to back up the rap anchor (which is the slung palo verde tree)

Photos

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