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Routes in McYetta's Loaf

Plaid Skirted School Girls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Type: Trad, Aid, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Cameron Burns and Jeff Widen, December 1999
Page Views: 429 total, 13/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Mar 19, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The route starts on the narrow west prow of the formation. It consists of two short pitches separated by a massive ledge system.
P1--Start up a short OW to squeeze to a stance, follow an OW to hand crack in a dihedral to an awkward mantle onto the large, rubble-strewn ledge. The rock is decent, but there are some hollow chunks to beware of. There are two drilled pins on a boulder about 20' back on the ledge for an anchor. (5.8, 70')

P2--Scramble up to the ledge beneath the steep headwall. Start up an overhanging, clean crack in a shallow, right-facing corner that starts as .75 and widens as it rolls over onto the vertical face. Exit the crack after about 25' and diagonal left on a ladder of closely spaced, good drilled pins and bolts to a belay ledge. There are around 10-12 bolts/pins. The anchor situation on the ledge is bizarre, consisting of 3-4 widely spaced bolts on the horizontal surface. (C1, 80')

Traverse the ledge left (east) for about 25' and up a short, easy corner to the summit plateau. This final bit is exposed easy 5th class, and probably best to rope up even though pro is sparse, and there is little for an anchor at the topout.

The summit rappel anchor is on the far west end, and has good bolts with webbing. Rap the route twice with a single 60m rope.

Location

Ascends the NW prow. Fixed anchors, rap twice with a single 60m down the route.

Protection

(1x) .3-.5 (2x) .75-3 (1x) 4-5 BD C4 sizes, jumars, etriers, replacement webbing for fixed anchors.

Photos

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