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Routes in Talseite

Bernd Arnold Platte S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Schildkrote S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Kurt Albert, '81
Page Views: 71 total, 2/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 18, 2015
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description

This is a slab in the classic sense, with insecure handholds and pitiful, uninspiring footholds. Surely there are more fun lines around, but if you want some breathtaking exposure and a fully-engaging experience, this line offers flawless rock on the upper headwall and unparalleled position.

Begin up easy, white, shattered stone, passing an old register on the way to the obvious two-foot roof. Get a good shake at the roof, and then make a big reach and a rock-over to gain the dark gray slab. A few easy moves along the diagonal crack give way to a sea of blue ripples and sloping horizontal seams. A crux thumbercling maneuver will get your attention, but the true key to the route is keeping your head together as you balance up the endless nothing toward the summit.

Location

On the left end of the south-facing wall. There is a maze of linkups on this wall, so study the topo carefully.

Protection

Around 11 bolts to a distant and hard to see anchor in the weeds.

Photos

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