PRINT: Rock Climb Luna 12, City of Rocks

Luna 12

5.12d, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),

Avg: 3 from 6 votes
FA: Mark Hanselman '91
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Checkered Demon

Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Description

Fantastic route if in the area, one the best and obscure .12s in the city! Start up large flared crack that leads to easy slab with nice stances. Get a good look up at the headwall and crank some incredible moves through small holds to god send jug at the top. Rumor has it that a key hold broke off rendering the crux (3-5 bolt)harder.

Location

Located immediate left line of Checkered Demon(namesake route), obvious bolt line that charts its way up red patina face on headwall. Start in left wide crack and traverse into slab until first bolt.

Protection

bolts. bolted anchors with chains

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian Waters
Ogden, UT

A friend and I tried this earlier this year. It felt significantly harder and much less enjoyable than Take a Hike. Oct 21, 2015

Ian Cavanaugh
Ketchum, ID

5.12d

seems to come down to one move. its a big move to a good hold, the problem is the holds you are moving off of and the lack of feet. from there surf up a cool rail to a hero jug finish. much more difficult for the shorter folks Mar 21, 2016