All Locations > California > Joshua Tree Natio… > Wonderland of Rocks > Wonderland South > Far East > The White Elephant (aka Comet Wall)
Southwest Face (Beckey Route)
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in The White Elephant (aka Comet Wall)
|Southwest Face (Beckey Route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Fred Beckey & Brian Gochoel Feb 7 1969|
|Page Views:||461 total, 14/month|
|Shared By:||Richard Shore on Mar 16, 2015|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThe fabled 4-pitch Beckey Route of JT. Probably the only route in Joshua Tree that was ever submitted to the American Alpine Journal. In his words - "with some probing, we found a long face, almost four pitches, in a large formation east of the main campground... The entire ascent was free and on good rock with a maximum of F8 on the last pitch to the summit."
The route starts below and left of the obvious "White Elephant" flake, hanging 50' up the wall. A minor bushwhack gets you started on route. All pitches are short (<70') and many are easily combined with proper slinging of gear.
P1: Lieback a sharp thin flake and follow a crack to a stance (5.5).
P2: Climb a flaring groove with hand crack in the back past a small chockstone to a spacious ledge (5.6).
P3: Move 30' left off the ledge and climb up a slot/squeeze, and then continue up a short section of face to the base of the summit block (5.5).
P4: An exposed and excellent (but short) splitter thin hands crack goes up the summit block on it's northwest side (crux, 5.8).
Beta from Big Al Bartlett can be found here