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Routes in Lower Ridge Trail Slabs

Deb's Dillema T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gardner's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
In Lieu of Seneca T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Java Crazy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One Bolt Too Many T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right "5.9" Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 95 total, 3/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Mar 16, 2015
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

P1: Pick your starting point near the bolt and move up. Going up the gully a little bit looks easier but really isn't. Continue up passing two more bolts and gear placements on the large left-facing flake and then the big undercling flake. Committing, but solid moves above the undercling will get you to the ledge and a belay tree/rap station.

P2: From the belay move out left and up to a bolt (going directly up from the belay is possible but is committing and 5.9+/5.10 and no pro). Up onto the big ledge and gear placements. Surmont the block ledge and then up the face to three more bolts on the headwall. Crux is at the 3rd bolt...delicate and balancy slab moves above the bolt. Run it out after that to the top.

Gear to 3" can be helpful for building a gear anchor and redirect at the top. You can walk-off left to the trail or go right to the rappel trees (two-raps to ground, need a 60m)

You could do the route in one long single pitch but I wouldn't want that rope drag at the crux.

Appreciate any more info on this route including its name, FA team (Mike???), etc

Location

This is on the southern portion of the Lower Ridge Slabs. From the descent trail at the col, go down and to the left, likely following a faint trail. This will get you to the base of the slabs on this end. This route starts at a bolt that you can reach pretty easily off the deck. To your right is a small gully. You'll be able to see the bolts on the upper head wall and the large roof on the left. On Mike Doyle's topo this is the right of the two 5.9 routes on the "head wall".

Protection

6 or 7 bolts total, rack to 3"

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