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Routes in Limestone Wall

Blind Mice, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Pigs, The S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Looseleaf Margin Left S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Looseleaf Margin Right S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sinusoidal Triverse S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Eric Samis, Kate Trecartin
Page Views: 36 total, 1/month
Shared By: samis1 on Mar 16, 2015
Admins: Dom, Ian Lingley

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Description

Middle route, 3rd from left/right. Scramble to a ledge to gain the first bolt. climb the slab and ledges past a second bolt to a third just below and obvious arĂȘte. After clipping the third bolt, fight the urge to traverse left onto easy, more loose terrain (5.4ish). Instead, pull the move straight up from the bolt and left around an arrete (crux) then make another easy move to the anchor above.

Protection

3 bolts and an anchor with chain

Photos

samis1
Saint John, NB
 
samis1   Saint John, NB
 
A bolt has been changed on this route. The third bolt (just before the anchor) has been chopped and moved down onto the slab. There is no longer a big runout between the 1st and 2nd bolt. It made more sense to protect the runout slab below then to protect the one easy move after the crux. Sep 18, 2015