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Something Nasty
5.12,
Trad, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 3.6 from 14
votes
FA: Kyle Copeland, 1988
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> Potash Rd
> Wall Street
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Access Issue: Poop Alert!
Details
Recently there has been a rash of human poops along Wall Street. There are bathrooms in the campgrounds a half mile from popular crags here. Use them. Otherwise, portable toilet systems are required in Grand County. Be prepared to carry human waste out on the trail.
Description
This is one of the best crack pitches at Wall Street. The crux comes early, with small gear and powerful moves. After the first twenty feet the difficulty eases into really enjoyable fingers and tips climbing.
Location
In the gully to the left of Under the Boardwalk and just right of I Love Loosey. Obvious crack line with bouldery tips start.
Protection
Tiny gear and/or stoppers for the crux. The rest goes well with triples of fingers and tips pieces of BD, Metolious, and Alien sizes up to .5BD.
Colorado Springs, CO