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Something Nasty

5.12, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 14 votes
FA: Kyle Copeland, 1988
Utah > Southeast Utah > Potash Rd > Wall Street
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Poop Alert! DetailsDrop down

Description

This is one of the best crack pitches at Wall Street. The crux comes early, with small gear and powerful moves. After the first twenty feet the difficulty eases into really enjoyable fingers and tips climbing.

Location

In the gully to the left of Under the Boardwalk and just right of I Love Loosey. Obvious crack line with bouldery tips start.

Protection

Tiny gear and/or stoppers for the crux. The rest goes well with triples of fingers and tips pieces of BD, Metolious, and Alien sizes up to .5BD.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12
[Hide Comment] One of the finest cracks at Wall Street. Felt more like 5.12a compared to the other 12s here. Triples of .3 and .4 and singles outside of that works great. With small nuts for the start. Do this route! Jun 9, 2023