Type: Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
GPS: 37.37622, -118.68071
FA: p1= Lance Milo Cagle, P2 = Cagle, Herm Harrison, Austin Archer
Page Views: 1,147 total · 9/month
Shared By: Milo Cagle on Mar 14, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This route is to the right of the chimney/gully.(P1,10b) - Climb a line of bolts that trends up and left towards a huge golden roof.Crux is just below the big roof. Climb out left side of roof to the 1st belay. From here, (P2, 10c ) - straight up around a left facing corner with a finger crack in the back, leads you to the steep corner/headwall. When the corner ends, clip bolt out left and make an airy traverse move to the anchor.

Location Suggest change

From "3 hour arete", skirt the toe of the buttress around to the right.

Protection Suggest change

Pitch 1 =13 bolts. Pitch 2 = 10 bolts. Both anchors have "lower offs", and you need a 70m rope to do them.The 2nd pitch wants to drop you onto the floor of a giant chimney, directly to the side of the anchor. The best way to do this pitch is to lead the 2nd pitch, and have belayer lower the leader back down to P1 anchor.  Then the second goes. (as opposed to leading P2, and belaying follower up, and rapping)

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