Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Hillyer Ravine

WI3-4, Trad, Ice, 200 ft (61 m), 4 pitches,  Avg: 2.9 from 23 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Catskills (Ice) > Kaaterskill Clove > Ravines

Description

A great route if you like a good approach coupled with excellent ice. The approach is about an hour (more in deep snow), so this wouldn't be a good choice if you like to climb right from your car. On the other hand, you'll get somewhat more of an alpine experience coupled with some great 3+ ice pitches.

There are four pitches (WI3-4) that vary from 30-50 feet. Pitch 1 is about 30', pitch 2 is about 40', pitch 3 is about 50' and pitch 4 is 30-40' (broken up by a large ledge). You can generally vary the difficulty of the climbing by which portion of the face you choose.

Hillyer, Viola, Wildcat and Buttermilk all face north, so are more likely to come in early and stay late (although Wildcat is the most narrow, so will open up most quickly as melting water degrades the ice).

Location

Park in the same area as for Moore's Bridge. It holds 4-5 cars if you use the entire space. Either walk up the road until you hit the actual Moore's Bridge and then turn left and up the obvious ravine or from the parking area angle up and to the climber's right until you intersect the ravine. As mentioned before, it's an hour's approach. As you make your approach, look for the old/narrow logging road that will help your ascent. If the Catskills has gotten good snowfall take snow shoes.

The Google Maps GPS for limited parking is "42°10'35.8"N 74°02'49.3"W". -RJ

FYI - The approach is NOT easy, it's an hour uphill, and approximately 1600ft of elevation gains. The last 200ft or so is a scramble over ice and snow. we used our microspikes the whole way up on January 8th - RJ

Protection

4-6 screws. You can belay from trees on all pitches (but you may need to set a directional at the top of the pitch for the follower).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tiny ice cave found hidden in the pristine ravinescape at the topout. Worth doing some exploring of the upper streambed while you are up there. Like heaven
[Hide Photo] Tiny ice cave found hidden in the pristine ravinescape at the topout. Worth doing some exploring of the upper streambed while you are up there. Like heaven
P3. Back to blue skies!
<br>

<br>
Jan. 29, 2025.
<br>

<br>
Posted with permission from Jason Shao.
[Hide Photo] P3. Back to blue skies! Jan. 29, 2025. Posted with permission from Jason Shao.
Insane hero plastic ice on P1. 
<br>

<br>
Jan. 29, 2025
<br>

<br>
Posted with permission from Jason Shao.
[Hide Photo] Insane hero plastic ice on P1. Jan. 29, 2025 Posted with permission from Jason Shao.
Climbing P2 in a snow squall. If you look at my P1 photo you'll see bluebird skies just before. Conditions can change quick up here!
<br>

<br>
Jan. 29, 2025
<br>

<br>
Posted with permission from Jason Shao.
[Hide Photo] Climbing P2 in a snow squall. If you look at my P1 photo you'll see bluebird skies just before. Conditions can change quick up here! Jan. 29, 2025 Posted with permission from Jason Shao.
Cool "parasol" feature partway up P2.
<br>

<br>
Jan. 29, 2025
<br>

<br>
Posted with permission from Jason Shao.
[Hide Photo] Cool "parasol" feature partway up P2. Jan. 29, 2025 Posted with permission from Jason Shao.
If you're looking to fill out your day up there, walk left from the base of the top pitch, and you'll see all kinds of fun, short flows.  These tend to come into shape early, so they can be an alternative top pitch when the "real" top pitch isn't solid.
[Hide Photo] If you're looking to fill out your day up there, walk left from the base of the top pitch, and you'll see all kinds of fun, short flows. These tend to come into shape early, so they can be an alte…
The big pitch (I call it pitch 2) in fat, mid-March condition a few years ago.
[Hide Photo] The big pitch (I call it pitch 2) in fat, mid-March condition a few years ago.
Hilyer pitch Four? February 1st 2020
[Hide Photo] Hilyer pitch Four? February 1st 2020
Hilyer pitch two? February 1st 2020
[Hide Photo] Hilyer pitch two? February 1st 2020
Hilyer pitch pitch one? February 1st 2020
[Hide Photo] Hilyer pitch pitch one? February 1st 2020
Hillyer is usually one of the earliest spots in the Catskills to develop real ice that you can put a screw into.  This was mid-December 2014.
[Hide Photo] Hillyer is usually one of the earliest spots in the Catskills to develop real ice that you can put a screw into. This was mid-December 2014.
Rappelling the 2nd pitch.
[Hide Photo] Rappelling the 2nd pitch.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] climbed 2/12/2022 and conditions were excellent. would not recommend connecting to the trail above as it drops you off far away from the parking lot. instead, either rap down (trees have some tat) or find the walk offs Feb 13, 2022