Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 189 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 13, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

There are a few short cruxes to this route: one being an insecure steep move prior to the finger crack, another being the sequence from the underclings through the juggy but long moves to get out from under the roof, and an additional one being the top-out to get established on the slab of the East Face, depending on where you choose to do so.

Start from the ground below the lower right roof, and work your way up to the bottom of that roof. By holds to the left and some underclings in the fingercrack, work up and left through the 2 roof sections and to the apex, where you can either continue left on the slanting flakes and ramps, or up and right over the roof itself on reasonably large holds. The latter finished up and right on insecure moves to gain the East Face, and the left negotiates flakes, slopers, and a ramp system to do the same further west. Either option is still only ~ 5.7.

Location

Head 10 meters down from the West end of the South face, passing Huecool (body-sized hueco 1/2 way up the wall) and over to a left-leaning finger crack that forms a double roof, also at the mid-height of the wall.

Protection

I soloed this route, but it appeared that it would take good gear from small cams to 2.5" and protect fairly well.

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