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Clinical Procedure

5.8, Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 1.5 from 6 votes
FA: (potentially) Gokul Gopal and members of the Outdoor Adventure Club from Platteville
Wisconsin > South > Fishin' Crag (C… > Amphitheater Wall

Description

P1 (5.5, 35'): Climb the hand crack that goes up two feet right of the arete, to a ledge with a big tree. You can walk off left from here, if desired.

P2 (5.8, 55'): Move the belay back on the ledge system to the base of a slabby block. Go up the slab to a tight dihedral. The crux is near the top of the dihedral. Top out onto the ledge system above, head to the short wall then climb up by a sandy crack (about 3 feet left of a tree that stands close to the wall).

Descent: Walk (or rap from a tree) off from the summit.

Location

This is at the very north (i.e., left) end of the Amphitheater Wall, just around the corner from the Incredible Hulk area.

Protection

Standard rack up to about 3"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pitch 2: climb dihedral to ledge, then go up (yellow dots - not visible from this angle) left wall to top.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2: climb dihedral to ledge, then go up (yellow dots - not visible from this angle) left wall to top.
Start of the route is just past the fallen tree, coming from the rusty ring area and heading towards the Amphitheater Wall.
[Hide Photo] Start of the route is just past the fallen tree, coming from the rusty ring area and heading towards the Amphitheater Wall.
Pitch 1 crack goes to the ledge with the big tree. Belay at tree.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1 crack goes to the ledge with the big tree. Belay at tree.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Gokul G
Madison, WI, USA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] I led this route in two pitches today, during a trad clinic (with a group of 5). I don't know if it has been climbed before. Judging by the amount of sand and moss on the route, I think probably not.

I'm also not very sure of the grade I gave it. It was very sandy in spots, and I climbed in approach boots, making it hard for me to judge technical difficulty. I had no good feet on the crux move in the dihedral, and had to campus to get a high foot. So it might be harder than 8, or it might just be that my footwear/technique was lacking. The range of grades suggested by the group spanned 5.8 to 10- for that move.

Please post here if you know anything about possible previous ascents of this route. Mar 13, 2015
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
[Hide Comment] Didn't know this thing existed, I'll hop on it next time I'm there. Apr 28, 2017
Devon Hummer
Ogden, UT
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] This first pitch of this route which has a very sustained crack looks appealing so we rappelled and cleaned it some, Jenna had lead it and upon following I broke off two hand holds. It was not wet and did not rain within the last week so it was perfectly safe to climb. The first pitch is less desirable however the second pitch is certainly where it gets good. 5.8 leaders be ready for some fun, difficult climbing. I would suggest skipping the first pitch and just climbing the second. May 14, 2017
Andrew Jablonski
LA CROSSE
 
[Hide Comment] The second pitch of this route is located between incredible hulk and gamma bomb. The first pitch can be found below hulk on the lower trail. Currently super dirty. Oct 10, 2019