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Finger Jockey

5.9-, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 59 votes
FA: Todd Townsend and Amy Wicks, 3/2015
California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > Fashion Slab

Description

Scramble up blocky ledges to the first bolt. Continuous, techy, low angle climbing gets you through two bulges/mini roofs and up the right facing corner to a surprisingly easy 3rd roof. The crux is moving past the 7th bolt.

Location

Look for the line of bolts between Blue Steel and Catwalk. Lower off with a 60m rope.

Protection

11 Bolts, Mussy Hook Anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

liz cruising finger jockey in significantly less than stellar conditions - snow, wind, and butt cold
[Hide Photo] liz cruising finger jockey in significantly less than stellar conditions - snow, wind, and butt cold
fun climbing on finger jockey, the gazelle at the '5.9' crux
[Hide Photo] fun climbing on finger jockey, the gazelle at the '5.9' crux
the gazelle braving snow on a second lap of 'finger jockey' 5/26/19
[Hide Photo] the gazelle braving snow on a second lap of 'finger jockey' 5/26/19
Route Topo
[Hide Photo] Route Topo
Matilda, age 6, leading up to the crux move. One of her favorite climbs.
[Hide Photo] Matilda, age 6, leading up to the crux move. One of her favorite climbs.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Milo Cagle
Bishop, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Super fun one. Apr 9, 2015
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Thanks, dude! Apr 9, 2015
MisterE Wolfe
Grass Valley, CA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Another fun route! The hero jug and perfect foothold at the first roof are exceptional! The crux is interesting, as well. Thanks Todd and Amy! Jul 17, 2015
James Barnett
[Hide Comment] Good fun route.

Here's a fun variation. Start up the first 3 bolts of Catwalk. Then on continue straight up to the anchors of Finger Jockey on a TR. About the same rating with some fun moves. You will pass a small bush half way up. Oct 16, 2015
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Funny you mention that, James. Originally, it was my intent to follow that exact line. However, those other guys put up Catwalk before I had a chance to do it, so I was forced to move the start further left. Regardless, I still think it turned out ok. Oct 17, 2015
old5ten
Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] edit 2/5/18 - hard man?! i wish, maybe in another life. ;-) i think our scales are calibrated a bit differently. i try to rate routes by how they would be rated in yosemite (valley and tuolumne), jtree, tahquitz, needles, etc. - on that scale i honestly can't give this route a 5.9...
really fun route, pretty tightly (over?) bolted. would make an excellent beginner's route if one can get to the first bolt (easy steps) without falling. not sure where the 5.9 comes from, i'd go with 5.7. merman has harder moves, so does downtown man... Jun 17, 2016
BAd
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Big fun. Unlike hard man old5ten, I have to give this a 5.9 rating. The second overlap has a couple of really fun tricky moves that are way harder than 5.7. Very safe, so leaders wanting to test the waters of this grade would be rewarded. Dec 27, 2017
Eric A Beck
Bishop, CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Best route I've done in several years. Thank you Todd! May 24, 2018
Bruce Willey
Bishop, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Never tire or get tired of and from this route. The moves are so good. It's one of the best Nines in the Universe... of Pine Creek. Jul 6, 2023