Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 71 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ketchup on Mar 10, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This route has likely been climbed by many folks looking for a moderate line up the lower bench of the East face of Quartermoon and then failing to link back to Aurora Borealis. If someone feels like they got the FA feel free to chime in with a different name.
A great all-traditional route. Although runout on 5.8 terrain, the cruxes have strong gear nearby. The rock quality is surprisingly good and the lack of bolts is refreshing. Approach as for the Direct Start of Aurora then begin 20 ft right below an obvious sickle. I found this route just as good as Aurora Borealis.

P1: Climb up into the sickle (slightly crunchy) through an easy bulge, then follow the sickle right and achieve the big ledge. Continue straight up with a few poorly protected moves before strange nut placements begin to appear. Easy climbing punctuated with a couple 5.10 moves keep the search for gear interesting. Link bulges and ledges wandering generally right until faced with a final bulge above a horizontal. Good gear in the horizontal inspires 6 feet of awkward traverse before committing to the crux runnel/bulge. Continue to the big ledge. Save 1 to 2 inch gear plus tricams for the anchor. 50 Meters. Long runners make this a surprisingly plumb pitch. 40 meters. 5.11a.

P2: Move left on the ledge and climb the cracks and flakes right of Aurora up to the bolted anchors on the next big ledge. 20 Meters. 5.10c

Continue on Lunar Power or rappel Aurora.

A direct continuation from the top of P2 awaits a bold lead.

Location

Start below the rotten looking sickle (right leaning) at the very bottom of the Quartermoon East Face 20 ft right of the Direct Start to Aurora Borealis. The route stays relatively plumb for the first and second pitch, then steps left and climbs straight up for the third.

Protection

Nuts, Pink and red tricam, Standard rack of cams + doubles around 1.5 inches. Long slings.

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