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Routes in First Overhang

First Overhang V5-6 6C+
French Trumpeter V6 7A
Left On Right V3-4 6A+
Masochism Tango V8 7B
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 290 total · 8/month
Shared By: Chris Beh on Mar 9, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a fun and much easier variation to the uber classic First Overhang. Somebody showed this to me about 10 years ago (I can't remember who). I am calling it Left on Right, because that is how it varies from the original. You use your left hand on the right hand holds, plus two others. The key hold doesn't hold chalk and is hard to see. It is soft V4 by Flagstaff standards.

Start as usual and reach up left, then up with the right to a hard-to-see, good edge in a black spot. Get your feet up on the starting jug and then your left hand to the small, right hand crimp on F.O., and your right hand to a good pinch at the lip. Get your feet up off the jug, and do a left hand deadpoint to the lip for the crux move.

Protection

Crash pads.

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