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Routes in Bad Bananas

Allegro Energico S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bad Bananas T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Banana Roof S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Be All That You Can Be S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Beetlejuice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Brain Full of Spiders S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bufugly S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chiquita S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dancing With Feral Debutantes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Early Retirement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
El Crapitan S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Plantains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jodonna S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Moment of Decay S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mozambique S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oscar the Grouch S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rainbird S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vitamine P S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Western Front S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
When YouÂ’re Feeling Sinister S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Andy Knight
Page Views: 156 total, 5/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Mar 8, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

I added this because it makes a nice single pitch in itself. It is also part of the first pitch of the multipitch route, Banana Roof, 13a. Boulder problem start (crux) to reach a jug and clip the 3rd bolt. From here, all big or positive holds with interesting heel hooks. Fun stuff!

Location

On the left side of the cave, shares first 2 bolts of Bufugly, 12d.

Protection

5 bolts, chains.

Photos

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This route is short. Short short short. Of course it is the first pitch of the Bad Banana Roof, so maybe that is to be expected. But it still feels short. Great quality of rock, fun moves. But not enough climbing. It will be good to start projecting the rest of the pitches now.
Oh, and the bolting for the first moves is super odd. You have two bolts that can be clipped while standing on the ground...then you move pretty far to the left in order to start the climb. It feels a little sketchy at first because if you fall before making the next clip you will come very close to decking, but the moves aren't all that hard into the third bolt so long as you keep your head about you. After clipping the third bolt move to an awesome double-handed undercling, make a big move up and then a bigger move to the right. After that you hit a jug that feels straight out of the gym, clip and then the climb is basically over. Jul 15, 2015