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Routes in New Beginnings Wall

Bane S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Claim Jumper S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
In Bane S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lucius S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Beginning S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Vision Quest S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
White Washed S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Rich Strang
Page Views: 203 total, 6/month
Shared By: Rich Strang on Mar 8, 2015
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Climb the right facing flake for a couple of moves to gain a horizontal ledge and move right here to the 2nd bolt. Continue zig zagging up the slab on 5.11-ish climbing, staying mostly on the right side of the bolts. At the 5th bolt, move left and climb up into the overhanging dihedral. Do a difficult move (V5ish) to the lip from a good hold on the right and climb to a rest at the 8th bolt. Continue up right from here with some difficulty at the next 2 bolts to the shared anchor with In Bane

Location

First route right of Bane/In Bane. About 20' right of those routes and left of New Beginnings and the project route. Shiny Fixe hangers, not the dark mad rock ones.

Protection

10 bolts to the shared anchor with a lowering biner
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
 
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
 
The beginning slab on this route is still a bit flakey and dirty making for less than 4 star climbing. Hopefully as it sees more traffic this will become a must do route. The upper climbing from the overhanging dihedral to the chains is on exceptional rock. As the start cleans up this route could certainly become a 4 star climb like New Beginning to the right! Mar 10, 2015