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Routes in Wedding Rock
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Boltless Baetylus T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Contortion TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Deranged Sailor T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Dirty Girdle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Great White Fright T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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High Tide Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Just Face It T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Lost Sailor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Low Tide Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Never Say Nada TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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North Face (Direct) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Pandiculation TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Principle Of Perplexity TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Psycho Path T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Riptide T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Seamstress TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Secret Passage TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shellfish Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Terete Arête T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c X |
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Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tombstone Stone Slab, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wedding Night Lingerie T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 165 ft (50 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Evan Wisheropp & Ben Flores |
| Page Views: | 1,156 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Evan Wisheropp on Mar 8, 2015 |
| Admins: | Rick Shull, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
On the north face of Wedding Rock, look for the big dihedral that is the first pitch start to Mark Butterworth's Seagull Traverse. This first pitch climbs easy 5th up to a sloping ledge. Anchor with small nuts, grey TCU, and a .5" cam.
For the second pitch, continue up towards the overhanging tower over blocky terrain (5.10). You will pass a few dirt ledges... stemming will allow you to keep your hands and feet off them. You don't need to touch any dirt. Really, it's stupid easy to keep off the dirt. Once at the overhanging dihedral, place as much of the small gear as you can (micro nuts and ball nuts) before stepping off into the crux. Tense stemming ends at a committing move to an decent hold off right where you can fire in a #1 Metolius. A few more strenuous moves land you on solid ground.
Cleaning the route on solo TR took hours/days of work (and sore hips) to remove all the loose rock and dirt from the cracks, but the route is good to go. Try it out on top rope, and enjoy! If you've got it dialed, get that lead!
For the second pitch, continue up towards the overhanging tower over blocky terrain (5.10). You will pass a few dirt ledges... stemming will allow you to keep your hands and feet off them. You don't need to touch any dirt. Really, it's stupid easy to keep off the dirt. Once at the overhanging dihedral, place as much of the small gear as you can (micro nuts and ball nuts) before stepping off into the crux. Tense stemming ends at a committing move to an decent hold off right where you can fire in a #1 Metolius. A few more strenuous moves land you on solid ground.
Cleaning the route on solo TR took hours/days of work (and sore hips) to remove all the loose rock and dirt from the cracks, but the route is good to go. Try it out on top rope, and enjoy! If you've got it dialed, get that lead!
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