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Routes in Mixed Up Amphitheater

Head Over Heels T M4
Type: Trad, Mixed, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 179 total, 5/month
Shared By: sara pax on Mar 6, 2015
Admins: Jeffrey Dunn

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Description

If you've been tr-ing in the playground all day and realize you just haven't been trying hard enough, this could be the climb for you. If your clothes are all nice and clean from the impeccable blue ice all around and that's a problem, this could be the climb for you. If you love crack climbing and the winter is just dragging on, this could be the climb for you.

Jam, chicken-wing, grab, hook, torque, and cam your way up the wide crack/flake up over a slight bulge (crux). If you drop a tool here almost impaling your belayer, don't worry, you can finish with one tool and your belayer is totally fine. Gain a stance at the top of the crack, then choose your chossy exit. I went left, I think you can go straight ahead too. Bring up your second, then rappel from an anchor to you left, to your right into the playground, or walk off right.

Location

This is the very inviting looking crack/flake just to the left of the Playground.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 or #5. Stuff in all the large cams before the crux so you don't have to drag them up the whole climb, that's what your second is for.

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