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Routes in Tempeh Wall

Blood Ceremony T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Double Tap T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sand Storm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Saxon Justice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Z.Harrison, B.McCord, J.Snyder
Page Views: 646 total, 19/month
Shared By: J. Snyder on Mar 5, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Are you guilty of lustful sin for Sedona black varnish, near 'perfect' splitter, and thin trick vert boulder problems?

If so...then Saxon Law calls you to court. Trial awaits; Justice by ordeal.
"If innocent, he would pass the test. His flesh would be unharmed."
-Peace Like A River

For the guilty...

Saxon Justice is a route worth the walk. One for the growing list of Sedona's finest single pitches. A hint of varnish and patina plus some moment of splitter bliss. Thin boulder problem to get you going, some bomber well placed #00 C3s or possibly #000 C3 will help protect the leader. Climb through the black splitter rawness to balancy stances. Thin gear and a helpful hidden fingers piece will get you through the spacey upper boulder problem. Bonkey hand crack to belay ledge. Be mindful of the remaining dinner plates.

  • Please be respectful of the project to the right of Saxon. Soon....

Location

Saxon Justice is found in the scree gully that starts just South of Beef Lord Spire. Approach as you would for Beef Lord Spire. Once you reach the base of Beef Lord look East and up the steep gully towards the obvious clean wall. Follow the North side of the gully until it chokes out and you are forced up the scree towards the base of the route.

Protection

2x #000 C3 (helpful low and high)
3x #00 C3
1x #0 C3
1x #1 C3 OPTIONAL
2x #.3 C4
2-3x #.4 C4
2-3x #.5 C4
2-3X #.75 C4
1-2x #1 C4
1x #2 C4 OPTIONAL
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
 
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
 
Yeass the challenges are more concrete now, and the line is cleaning up to be better. I think this line does define 4 stars in Dona land. Apr 26, 2016
Zach Harrison
  5.12-
Zach Harrison  
  5.12-
After additional cleaning and breakage, this line is getting harder. Give it several days to dry after a rain and be careful with the feet as to not break the fragile starting holds. Still awesome! Apr 23, 2016