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Routes in El Mirador

Access Denied S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Coatimundi S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
El Tiacuache TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Face the Music S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
La Prisa Mata S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Libertad S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yogi Goes to Mexico S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yogi Unchained S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 350 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Magic Ed & Javier Gonzalez
Page Views: 267 total, 8/month
Shared By: MAKB on Mar 4, 2015
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route


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Description

This is a really great route, with awesome exposure and a really cool summit. It climbs obvious dihedrals and good face climbing up to the ridge.

P1: 5.10a - 11 bolts
P2: 5.10a - 9 bolts
P3: 5.10c - 9 bolts - crux. Some cool handjams and good exposure.
P4: 5.9 - 8 bolts - Jugs to the summit.

You can link pitches and do the route route in two pitches.

Location

After hiking up steep terrain past the Wonder wall this is the first route you come to on El Mirador and is marked with a nameplate.

Getting down is maybe the crux. There are a couple options.
Rap the route you climbed, which posed the problem of getting rope stuck on the first rap, which isn't kind of indirect at the top. Or go down a fixed line 15 feet to another anchor where you can rap down to a ledge in the virgin canyon and then walk over to a 4th class down climb in the gully. Then walk down the steps in the virgin.

Protection

12 draws + 60m Rope
Take 22 draws if you want to link pitches.
AOSR
Wherever we park!
 
AOSR   Wherever we park!
 
Weird route. Somewhat atypical climbing up the first two pitches. The second pitch will probably be laying on the ground someday. The 3rd pitch is awesome. Bring a number 2 if you're not comfortable running it out up an awesome hand crack after pulling the crux. Jan 4, 2017