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> Oak Creek Spire…
> Beef Lord Spire
Pump First Pay Later
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British C0 R
Type: | Trad, Aid, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Tim Toula, Kathy Zaiser, Ira Hickman |
Page Views: | 601 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Zach Harrison on Mar 3, 2015 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd |
Description
This is the alluring thin spire at the end of the wash between Oak Creek and Big Country Spires. The route is on the south face, and is obvious from the approach. However, marginal rock and gear quality is not up to the aesthetic standard of this fine looking spire. First ascent described it as a Bad Acid Trip. From the notch, unprotected traverse to equalizable bolts and belay.
Pitch 1 Head up to the very thin crack and chimney into the do not fall zone. A hand crack in a bulge gives much needed dependable gear. Now bolder up mank face holds with spaced gear to a bolt ladder that has some missing hangers. Belay at the cramped seated stance off of many equalized tips to subtips pieces. Hard and scary. 5.11 C0. Might go free at 5.12- with lots of cleaning if any holds are left?
Pitch 2 Gladly boulder out of the spooky belay to a finger crack, that goes to wide laybacking to fingers and a bolt. Belay off a equalized nest of varied gear on the summit. 5.11 C0. Free at 5.12-?
Rejoice and enjoy the spires shadow.
Rap from bolts to the notch with 2 ropes.
Pitch 1 Head up to the very thin crack and chimney into the do not fall zone. A hand crack in a bulge gives much needed dependable gear. Now bolder up mank face holds with spaced gear to a bolt ladder that has some missing hangers. Belay at the cramped seated stance off of many equalized tips to subtips pieces. Hard and scary. 5.11 C0. Might go free at 5.12- with lots of cleaning if any holds are left?
Pitch 2 Gladly boulder out of the spooky belay to a finger crack, that goes to wide laybacking to fingers and a bolt. Belay off a equalized nest of varied gear on the summit. 5.11 C0. Free at 5.12-?
Rejoice and enjoy the spires shadow.
Rap from bolts to the notch with 2 ropes.
Location
Park at Jack's Canyon trailhead and approach as for Oak Creek Spire. After about 30 minutes, you will cross a wash that is west of Oak Creek Spire. Go up the wash for 30 minutes, then exit the wash and bushwack through sharp plants to the south side of Beeflord, then go around the back and an exposed scramble to the notch.
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