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Routes in Beef Lord Spire

Pump First Pay Later T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C0 R
Type: Trad, Aid, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tim Toula, Kathy Zaiser, Ira Hickman
Page Views: 253 total, 8/month
Shared By: Zach Harrison on Mar 3, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This is the alluring thin spire at the end of the wash between Oak Creek and Big Country Spires. The route is on the south face, and is obvious from the approach. However, marginal rock and gear quality is not up to the aesthetic standard of this fine looking spire. First ascent described it as a Bad Acid Trip. From the notch, unprotected traverse to equalizable bolts and belay.

Pitch 1 Head up to the very thin crack and chimney into the do not fall zone. A hand crack in a bulge gives much needed dependable gear. Now bolder up mank face holds with spaced gear to a bolt ladder that has some missing hangers. Belay at the cramped seated stance off of many equalized tips to subtips pieces. Hard and scary. 5.11 C0. Might go free at 5.12- with lots of cleaning if any holds are left?

Pitch 2 Gladly boulder out of the spooky belay to a finger crack, that goes to wide laybacking to fingers and a bolt. Belay off a equalized nest of varied gear on the summit. 5.11 C0. Free at 5.12-?
Rejoice and enjoy the spires shadow.
Rap from bolts to the notch with 2 ropes.

Location

Park at Jack's Canyon trailhead and approach as for Oak Creek Spire. After about 30 minutes, you will cross a wash that is west of Oak Creek Spire. Go up the wash for 30 minutes, then exit the wash and bushwack through sharp plants to the south side of Beeflord, then go around the back and an exposed scramble to the notch.

Protection

Gear is spooky on the first pitch. 4X 00C3s, 2X from 0C3 to .5, 1X .75-4 Camalots. Nuts. Runners. Life insurance policy.

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