All Locations > Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Village of Oak Creek > Oak Creek Spire Area > Beef Lord Spire
Pump First Pay Later
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 150 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Tim Toula, Kathy Zaiser, Ira Hickman|
|Page Views:||258 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Zach Harrison on Mar 3, 2015|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionThis is the alluring thin spire at the end of the wash between Oak Creek and Big Country Spires. The route is on the south face, and is obvious from the approach. However, marginal rock and gear quality is not up to the aesthetic standard of this fine looking spire. First ascent described it as a Bad Acid Trip. From the notch, unprotected traverse to equalizable bolts and belay.
Pitch 1 Head up to the very thin crack and chimney into the do not fall zone. A hand crack in a bulge gives much needed dependable gear. Now bolder up mank face holds with spaced gear to a bolt ladder that has some missing hangers. Belay at the cramped seated stance off of many equalized tips to subtips pieces. Hard and scary. 5.11 C0. Might go free at 5.12- with lots of cleaning if any holds are left?
Pitch 2 Gladly boulder out of the spooky belay to a finger crack, that goes to wide laybacking to fingers and a bolt. Belay off a equalized nest of varied gear on the summit. 5.11 C0. Free at 5.12-?
Rejoice and enjoy the spires shadow.
Rap from bolts to the notch with 2 ropes.