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Routes in Mussel Rock

Chimney Route TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doozy TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
God Of The Gaps TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mussel Crack A1
Mussels For Bones TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ocean Overhang T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 108 total · 3/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Mar 3, 2015
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This description is for the huge overhanging dihedral with a gaping offwidth inside.

This isn't just a climb, it is an adventure! Its history of being climbed is unknown and highly unlikely. I've been up it several times and once with a scrub brush. It is getting cleaner each time, but it still comes with a little dirt.

Once you work your way up and left past all of the ledges and boring flaky rock (5.5) you are rewarded with one of the best cracks in Humboldt County. After the last ledge, the enormous overhang looms above. From here on up, if you fall on top rope, you'll take a massive swing out into space and will not be making it back to the cliff; it is all or nothing.

The 50 foot overhang is strenuous and unrelenting offwidth using everything from fists, forearm jams, arm bars, and some welcome arm locks. You will pass several bulges, a few of them pretty sizable, and all of them providing an obstacle. Pass the larger roofs in the beginning with exciting chimney moves and good jams. After the bigger roofs, alternate between a jammed knee and stemming.

Breathtaking amount of air all around you on this route!!

Location

To access the top, find the trail that turns west off of the Rim Trail, at the first fork, turn right. Follow this overgrown trail up a hill, past some caves, and back downhill. Turn right and walk below a 20' rock and land on a grassy ledge on the just below the headwall on the southern side. Climb across a 3rd class crossing below the headwall. On your right (east) you will notice a fist crack and offwidth, these are directly above the route. Set an anchor in these or equalize the two larger trees with a separate climbing rope or your rope won't land in the correct spot. If leading, you will want to set up your anchor first so you don’t have to climb over the dirt mound at the top.

Protection

Edit: The gear anchor at the ledge halfway up is really not great, it's best best to climb as one pitch. If you do it in one pitch, don't place gear on the lower ramp and clip any gear at the upper ramp ~8' long or you would have impossible rope drag.

Gear:
doubles 3-7"
I led this route again yesterday, this route never fails to provide a fantastic adventure. I has gotten a little dirtier over the winter, but oh well, it's all part of the adventure! If This climb was completely clean and in Yosemite Valley it would be rated 5.10d and there would be a line of people still waiting not to get on it. The offwidth aficionados would love it though. Jul 3, 2016
I've rapped down and scrubbed the heck out of this thing for probably a cumulative 4 hours, it's much nicer and good to go! Have at it! Feel free to PM me if you want to borrow the big gear. Oct 8, 2015