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Routes in The Hen House

Free Range T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Trevor Bowman and Emily Reinsel 1/25/15
Page Views: 176 total, 5/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Feb 28, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

One of the best free routes I've done in the VOG, with a nice sampling of crack sizes and mostly clean, solid stone. This is the first recorded route on the butte.

P1-Traverse in from the right on a ledge to the base of a splitter. Start with a bouldery crux, up a steep, splitter baggy fingercrack on good rock (has calcite in the crack, the only time I've seen this in the VOG); make wide stems to a corner to the left, until you are forced to bust a couple of splitter moves into an acute flare where the crack widens to thin hands. A small pedestal ledge sits below the easier final corner/flare which has a large, hollow flake that facilitates progress and affords plenty of slightly skeptical gear. A softer finish with some loose plates gets you to a huge midway ledge and a pair of cold shuts. (5.11-, 80)

P2-Scramble from the anchor up a couple of steps to the base of a left facing corner that switches to a right-facing corner after about 15'; this corner sits about 10' left of a major chimney/cleft. The corner starts with a short stretch of steep, tight hands before ramping out and widening through cups to a stance. It would be possible to bail right into the main chimney here and make the pitch easier, but we continued straight up. From the stance, a very tight squeeze widens into a better size, before pinching down and forcing a crux exit into a steep handcrack. Step right into the major chimney system on a convenient chockstone, and finish up this very fun, moderate chimney with featured rock and a good crack on the interior. Belay off of a chain/cold shut anchor on a ledge just below the summit plateau. (5.10+, 110')

Scramble up slots and a 40' easy fifth class pitch to the summit. There are several summits, all nearly the same height. We scrambled up a couple of those closest to the topout of the route, and left a cairn with a register on the one we thought might be the highest.

Rap the route with one rope (60m fine).

Location

On the right side of the south face. Refer to the approach directions under the butte and the overview pictures on this page for specifics.

Protection

(1x) .2-.4 (2x).5-2 (1x) 3-6 BD C4 sizes. Steel anchors. 1 60m rope adequate.

Photos

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