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Routes in The Bear Gun

Bear Fight T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Polar Bear T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kevin Kent, Emily Reinsel, 2/2015
Page Views: 296 total, 9/month
Shared By: Kevin Kent on Feb 28, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This route ascends the north face of the Bear Gun in two pitches. See the Bear Gun page for all the wonderful history.

P1: Start with low angle junky climbing until you reach a nice ledge (some may want to solo this part to belay higher). From the ledge step out onto a thin face and traverse past a bolt. When you get to a stance go up the cracks to a large ledge. Walk right and belay behind the bush at the base of the handcrack corner.

P2: The money. Go up beautiful thin hands crack. After 40' or so a fingercrack splitter on the right face materializes just close enough to reach. Move into this and enjoy the goodness as the splitter slowly widens from .3 to #3 as it takes you to the top, passing a small ledge in the middle that might still have a little loose rock. In the final 20' the crack widens further (save the #4 for here) but eases up considerably.

Rap off to the saddle. 70m rope works but it's tight and exposed.

Location

From the saddle between the tower and the wall, go down and traverse on large ledges until below the north face of the tower.

Protection

Standard double rack, 1 #4, maybe an extra in .75-#2. Stoppers not necessary. Single 70 just works.

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