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Routes in Race Crack Area

Crack 'N Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crescent Crack First Pitch Free T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crescent Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
DZ Arete T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Foggy Bottom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jammies T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Lizard Run S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Outer Limits T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Puff Aider T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
Race Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sky Walker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Toes and Paws T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A1
Upstairs T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, Aid, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dan D., solo
Page Views: 211 total, 6/month
Shared By: Nathan W. on Feb 27, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

Puff Aider is a good route to Learn aid on and practice tying off pins. The first pitch starts with a bolt ladder that leads into a seam with numerous fixed pins some of which are sticking out half way. Continue up the crack through pins and small placements to a couple bolts that take you to the next crack which is all gear placements to the anchor. It's A2 because you'll be slinging half-driven pins for a few moves with small placements in between, that being so, you might want to bring a hammer in case any of the pins are loose, which after a season have loosened enough to wiggle.

The second pitch is an awesome crack that goes free at 5.10. Superb but painful jamming so be sure to bring tape! Hand jams, fist jams, lie backing, and finger jams take you up to a three-bolt anchor. Two double-roped rappels gets you to the ground.

Location

When arriving at the main wall make a left and start up the gully. The route is not far up the gully, look for the bolts and the seam with pins sticking out

Protection

Small gear for the first pitch, micro TCUs and nuts. Be sure to bring plenty (10-15) of tie-off loops for the half-driven pins and a hammer to re-drive any if they're loose. Doubles of fingers to fists for the second pitch. Two 60m ropes

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