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Routes in Zen Garden aka Ninja Training Cave
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Shaolin Finger Jab, The V8 7B PG13 |
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Zen Garden V10 7C+ PG13 |
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| Type: | Boulder, 40 ft |
| FA: | Zach Smith |
| Page Views: | 747 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | ben jammin on Feb 24, 2015 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
Although not as eye popping as Zen Garden, Shaolin Finger Jab climbs just as well as its neighbor. Zach Smith, who developed the area, found a gem with this line.
If you're looking into the cave this line starts matched on a crimp rail about 15' right of Zen Garden. Easier yet, look for the obvious three finger pocket and follow it back to its obvious starting point.
Climb perfect horizontal edges to a long move to the pocket, and don't let the feet cut as you go for a jug (crux). Follow jugs to crimps on the headwall and committing moves on slopers for the top out (brush them first). The exit moves are made extra exciting as you find yourself higher and higher off the ground and above a tree. Lots of pads and spotters recommended for the top out.
If you're looking into the cave this line starts matched on a crimp rail about 15' right of Zen Garden. Easier yet, look for the obvious three finger pocket and follow it back to its obvious starting point.
Climb perfect horizontal edges to a long move to the pocket, and don't let the feet cut as you go for a jug (crux). Follow jugs to crimps on the headwall and committing moves on slopers for the top out (brush them first). The exit moves are made extra exciting as you find yourself higher and higher off the ground and above a tree. Lots of pads and spotters recommended for the top out.
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