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Routes in Skyline Wall (PATC Wall)

10 Hex Offwidth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bombay Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Consolation Prize T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crackback T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dobie Gillis Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duck Walk T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fern Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hemlock Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Keyhole Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Keyhole Right T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
PATC Lieback to Bombay Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Piton Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Psychobabble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rusty Bong T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waste Age S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Leslie Newman 1984
Page Views: 315 total, 9/month
Shared By: Notapplicable on Feb 24, 2015
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

Technical granite roof, face and crack climbing. One of the best 5.10's on the mountain.

This route is described as "dicey" in the Horst guide but it's actually well protected and has a new bolt. Get on it!

Location

Climbers left of Dobie Gillis. Start in the hand crack splitting the low roof

Protection

Standard rack. Doubles in #1 & #2 C4 I believe. A #3 might be useful at the top but isn't mandatory. The bolt was replaced in December 2014

Photos

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Leslie, nice work on the FA. It's a really interesting and multifaceted route. I tried it in 2013 and just couldn't commit to the crux over the existing bolt. The hanger was so rusted I could bend it by hand and not having it would result in a brutal fall. Borderline R rated climbing IMO. It now has shiny new 1/2" stainless bolt though, so anyone reading this should go get on it. It's a classic. Again, nice work. Jun 26, 2017
Chris Irwin
Silver Spring, Maryland
Chris Irwin   Silver Spring, Maryland
Thanks for the comment Leslie! It's great (and rare) to hear from FAist Apr 26, 2017
Hello. I put up Duck Walk in 1984. Took a few trips up to Rag before I completed the route. Ron Dawson and I worked on it initially. First try I ended up lowering off a large chock I left at the end of the lower crack. I remember working out the moves off to the right where I drilled the bolt. Remember standing there hammering that bolt hole with I think a three cam unit stuck in that small crack near the bolt. I hated putting in a bolt but just didn't see any way around it. I took several falls on the bolt trying to work out the moves above it. It got the silly name because I did some silly squat, waddle like move at the very top getting over the top and I said to Ron I felt like I was walking like a duck near the end. Later he had told everyone about 'Duck Walk'. Some really fond memories of climbing at Old Rag. Apr 20, 2017